Exstew Wall

This is an amazing overhanging wall up the Exstew Valley. There is lots of potential for some really hard sport routes.

There is a lighted, road conditions sign spanning Highway 16 on the western outskirts of Terrace. 32km west of this is the Exstew Forest Service Road. Turn right onto this road and drive down it for 4.2km past a rock quarry. The Road should be the 2nd right turning road. Extew Rock Climbing sign is visible.Park here or hike/drive another 100m up this road until it ends and a trail takes off on your right. The first cliff called the "Trail Side Crag" you reach, has two sport routes. To reach the main wall, continue up the stairs and another 5min further along the trail. The Exstew forest service campground is 2 km past the parking lot for this crag. Bring your bug dope & start a fire. Mosquitos here are evil.

Trail Side Crag
Stinger- 5.11b****, 12m sport
Classic face climbing sport route. Start off with a boldery overhang, then on through cruzy vertical faceclimbing moves to the crux consisting of a well protected dyno to a horizontal crack pocket hold, then on to the chains. Stick clipping the first bolt to save power & or to prevent a deck fall may be an idea on this climb. Traversing over from the left to avoid the overhang is also an option but the actual line is through the roof.
FA/FFA Scott Newton

The White Dike - 510c*** 12m sport
Obvious white granite dike to the left of stinger. Climb from the ground to a bucket, then work your way through the overhang to the vertical face. Climb the stiff face up past bolts to the anchor.
FA/FFA Scott Newton


Stinger White ****
Main Wall

Follow the trail up over the Trail Side Crag another 3 minutes through the bush towards the main wall.
The last 3 routes need a little cleaning. The brush and broom are there, go for it.

Belly Dancing TopoFire in the Hole
Bellydancing- 5.10d, 2p, mixed
P1 5.10c/d, 20m, sport- Left of “Fire in the Hole” is a fun sport route that turns a large roof on its left side. This is followed by some intimidating moves to nice jugs and some “bellydancing” to get to the bolted anchor.
P2 5.10b/c, 15m, gear to 4”
From the large ledge, head up and right past a bolt to a wide crack that leads to the anchor for the first pitch of “Fire in the Hole”.

Fire in the Hole- 5.11 (5.9), 3p, mixed
P1 5.9, 30m, gear to 3.5” FA/FFA Scott Newton
This is the prominent right-angling crack just left-of-centre. Solo up to the base of the crack, then continue up. The crux is at the end before stepping left to the bolted anchor.
P2 5.11b, 15m, gear FA Scott Newton & Travis Sanwald
Follow the crack up and left of the belay to a bolt and then a large chain that is used to traverse over to the bolted anchor.
P3 5.8, 20m, gear to 3” FA/FFA Scott Newton
Follow the obvious traversing crack up and left to a bolted belay. Descent: Two ropes are needed. Rap 20m down to a ledge with a bolted belay. Another long, free-hanging rap reaches the ground.

Brutality- 5.11c, 2p
P1 -5.11c, 20m sportThe bolted line right of Fire in the Hole. Weave your way back and forth before finally stepping up and right after the last bolt to meet up with the crack on your right.
FA Scott Newton & Travis Sanwald
FFA Andy Lecuyer
P2 -5.11b or 5.10 A0, 20m sport. Follow a bolt ladder through a series of horizontal rounded over cracks to finish off at the anchors at the diagonal running gash. Stiff start to the pitch (Boulder 5.11b move)
FA Scott Newton & Andy Lecuyer
The crack to the right of this climb has not been freed yet. Really awkward and sandy despite repeated cleaning attempts with a toilet bowl cleaner.

The Smell of Fear- 5.10b, 18m, gear to 4”
Directly above the fixed blue rope in the narrowing groove. Climb the crack and up the slab on the right. Turn the roof on the right via slabby moves and then up to the station.

Danger Ranger- 5.10b, 15m, mixed to 3”
The left-hand of two right facing corners about 5m right of the Smell of Fear. Clip the second bolt and head straight up to the anchor.

French Femme- 5.10a, 15m, mixed to 3”
The right-hand alternate start to Danger Ranger. After clipping the second bolt head left to the finish up the former climb.


***NEW CLIMBS*** 2012
New Climbs at Exstew
Where the Wild Things Are
240 m Grade II 5.8
*NOTE: a 70m rope or two 60ms are best. The rap from p.3 to p.2 is evidently more than a 30m rap*

Access:Hike up as for the Extew sport wall. Where the Wild Things Are, climbs the up the wall to the north of the Extew sport wall. Hike north and scramble up through brush and ledges to a fixed rope that traverses out to climbers left. Follow the fixed line clipping bolts for protection to a large ledge to a bolt belay. This pitch is easy 5th class.
The Climb: You need anchor material and quick draws for this
P1 30m 5.8 Climb up and left out of cave clipping bolts to the top of a pedestal. Move up over a couple of bushes to the wall and head up left and back right following bolts up to a large belay ledge above. (The first pitch was the only pitch we needed to clean on the first ascent it might still have some dirt on it?)
P2 30m. 5.8 Climb left of the belay and up to a bolt above. Follow bolts up to a belay stance
P3 20 m 5.7 Climb above belay following four bolts to a grassy ledge. Traverse left and look for a bolt on the face. Climb up to the bolts and make a short traverse left to belay.
P4 25m 5.7 Climb up past bolts through a small overhang and carry on up to belay above.
P5 30m 5.5 Climb up past bolts angling rightward to a large ledge that runs across the face of the climb.
P6 30m 5.8 Traverse right along ledge for approximately 5 meters and move up to a bolt. Climb up short pedestal and clip bolt and continue to make an upward traverse right past more bolts to belay.
P7 30m 5.8 Climb up and right past two bolts. Carry on upward to a belay above.
P8 20m 5.6 Climb up and left toward a tree that hangs down from above an overhang. Climb past the tree on the left side making good use of it past to bolts to tree belay above.
Descent:
From the Tree Belay move left along ledge for approximately 5 meters and move down past a large tree making exposed moves down to a two ring bolt anchor. Note (Its best to be roped up to get to the belay) From the anchor move down the wall 25 meters and angle climbers left a short ways to reach a small lip of rock just above where it gets steep. From here you can make five 30 meter rappels to the ground. *Note this route was completed from the ground up and may require additional bolts. Nice to have would be a more direct Rap route that takes you from the to the top of pitch four. Were working on it but if you beat us to it we won’t be offended. Climb Safe and Have fun!!!!!! Add bolts if you think the route needs it.

Hootenanny
240 m Grade II 5.10+

Access:Hike up the trail to the base of the Extew sport wall. Hootennanny starts up a left facing corner at the far left hand end of the sport wall.To date this route has only had a few ascents, so expect moss and dirt that being said it may be one of the best routes up here for its grade! Even the first few pitches are worth it.

The Climb:

P1 15m 5.7 Climb up and left up left facing corner. Climb the overlap on the left side next up to a two bolt belay.
P2 15m 5.7 Climb up to a right facing corner past bolts. Climb onto the face left of the corner and make several moves past bolts up to a belay stance bellow the steep wall above.
P3 27 m 5.10+ Climb up and right above belay. Make several steep moves to a ledge. Take a big rest and continue climbing up through the steep terrain above eventually making to a belay stance. You should be incredibly pumped after this pitch.
P4 27m 5.10- Climb up left of the belay through more steep terrain. After several bolt the terrain eases off. The pitch moves up amazing clean rock to a belay stance bellow a roof.
P5 20m 5.6 Climb left and up moving out to skyline arête on the left. Spectacular position! Move up wide arête to large ledge system that traverses the rock face.
P6 30m 5.10+ Traverse right to arête and make exciting moves up on insecure holds. Eventually move left and up to a ledge.
P7 15m 5.8 Climb up and share belay for Pitch 7 of Where the Wild Things Are.P8 20m 5.6 Climb up and left toward a tree that hangs down from above an overhang. Climb past the tree on the left side making good use of it past to bolts to tree belay above.
Descent:
From the Tree Belay move left along ledge for approximately 5 meters and move down past a large cedar tree making exposed moves down to a two-ring bolt anchor. Note (Its best to be roped up to get to the belay) From the anchor move down the wall 25 meters and angle climbers left a short ways to reach a small lip of rock just above where it gets steep. From here you can make five 35-meter rappels to the ground.

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