Peanut Area

Peanut Area



Peanut Rock
(Some of this is taken from Matt's Climbing Page)
From where the golf course road meets the powerline road, look straight up (up and left of Houdini) to see a peanut-shaped outcropping. This is Peanut Rock.

The easiest access is up and left from the Houdini wall. Shortly after passing the trail to Houdini, the trail contours left towards Peanut Sauce and another trail branches directly uphill to a gully with an old strap to pull up on. At the point where you reach the fixed rope/strap, the new first pitch of the peanut is just down to your left. Shortly after pulling up the old hose head left to reach the new second pitch of the Peanut, or continue up making liberal use of a blue rope (may be gone now) to reach a small ledge with a single tree that is the start of the third pitch. There are three routes in this area, each one higher than the last. All routes are equipped with rappel anchors.

A. The Peanut 5.10d, 4p, gear to 3”
An outstanding climb.
New Pitches***
P1. 5.10a, 30m.
Follow an off-angle finger crack to a ledge, then up two slabby sections to a two bolt anchor. Hike 10m right to reach the second pitch of the peanut. There is a big block at the top of the crack that appears solid for the time being, and the large flake at the top of the pitch is quite hollow but wouldn't come off with some serious prying. Carry your shoes to the start of the second pitch cause you will walk down from here.
P2. 5.9, 30m.
Up some left-leaning cracks to a roof. Above the roof stick to the arête (bolt) and then finish up a short corner.
***
P3. 5.10a, 33m.
From the ledge step left and follow the slabby arête past two bolts. Climb the crack which splits the feature to a rappel anchor.
P4. 5.10d, 25m.
Some unprotected moves directly above the belay leads to a traverse to the second crack, which rises to the top of Peanut Rock. There is good protection to start the traverse but the moves are committing. Pitches two and three can be combined in one long pitch.
* A new bolt as of 2008 makes the moves much less committing... not to mention a lot safer.

B. Smooth Sailin’ 5.10c/d, 2p, bolts/wires.
A face and slab climb that starts from the top of Peanut Rock. Follow the bolts over an improbable looking roof and the face above. Retrobolted in 2006 to reduce the runouts. The second pitch finishes on a ledge system that is the start of Friends in High Places.

C. Friends in High Places 5.11+/12-, 2p, gear to ?
A long crack above Smooth Sailing. The crack starts out thin and overhanging, and but the angle gradually relents, and the crack widens to hand size. FFA Ray Hawkes.
New Routes***
Apparently there are some new pitches above Smooth Sailin'.
***

D. Unknown 5.10b, 20m, gear to 3”
A fantastic gear route that has a very pumpy finish.

F Connector 5.10a (Not shown on drawing yet)

P1 5.10a 40m Starting on climbers left on the ledge above the Peanut; veer up and around the blocky stuff then diagonal left past a tree and a couple of bolts. From there go up the corner to the traverse ledge.

Traverse 10m Follow fixed line left and then down on a nice clean ledge.

P2 10a 20m Lay back the steep dihedral then cross over to the cedar tree. From the tree it is nice easy cracks to the Ogre ledge.

FA Scott Newton/Andy Lecuyer

Note: Bottom of pitch1 is still a little dirty, be carefull and feel free to scrub! These pitches complete the Grand Corner Route in that they connect the Peanut to the Ogre to make it 9 pitches to the top of the wall.
E. The Ogre 5.8 sport+

P1 5.8 15m climb the crack at the base of the "Grand Corner", good gear then bolts up high towards the ledge belay.

P2 5.8 50m Nice long pitch with a variety of face, crack and dihedral climbing to a comfy belay. Mostly bolts but a light gear rack is required to reduce runouts.

P3 5.7 10m Finish off the wall with a cruzy 5.7 to the Ogres den above. Hike off to the left connecting up with the "Love on the Rocks" trail leading to buffalo rock. If you wish to rappel, there is a rap route starting from the "Penthouse Ledge" which is a short walk climbers right from the top of the Ogre. Follow the pink flagged rappel stations ~ the distance between anchors is 30m. There are a lot of anchors at the top pitches of the rap route, stay to the climbers right anchors (no guarantees the pink flagging will always be there). Going climbers left will take you to the top of "Friends in High places" which could result in your rope getting caught in the crack.

FA Scott Newton/Andy Lecuyer
FFA Scott Newton/Rod Taylor

Note: P2 can gets sandy up high as the crack spits it out over the winter, but the climbing is easy.
Grand Corner Route

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